Adventures in Traverse City and all over Up North Michigan

Category: Puerto Rico

The Hyatt Hacienda del Mar, Puerto Rico

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It was a dark and stormy night as we landed in San Juan. Having only carry-ons, we smugly passed the baggage claim and out into the tropical night, forty degrees warmer than the Grand Rapids airport we had departed from that morning. The aging San Juan airport impressed me by its rental car location across from the arrival doors. No game of “Is that my shuttle?” as bus after bus passes you by, stacking small disappointments atop one another.

Another bonus was that since Puerto Rico is part of the United States, our cell phones worked. This is a Godsend because navigating San Juan was terrible. Even with the almighty Google directing us it was still a challenge, but one Andrea conquered. The first stop of our vacation was two-story Walmart. Yes, excitement was in the air, for I had never been to a multi-level Wal Mart. And it had a parking ramp above it. Different brands, signs in Spanish, paying for plastic bags – little things that let you know you’re not home anymore. Our supplies in hand, we were back on the road the hotel that would be our home for our week in Puerto Rico. After missing the entrance ramp (but only once), we were off, taking the northern route along the ocean to avoid the freeway and the its tolls.

The Hyatt Hacienda del Mar is an hour east of San Juan. Through Andrea’s hotel point wizardry, we stayed for free – all we had to do was spend a lot of money on things to get the points to stay there. But as we were going to spend that money anyways, it ended up being a great deal. Our room came with a microwave, refigerator and dishes. These all came in handy because we made most of our own lunches during that week. The Hyatt wasn’t an all-inclusive so there were no unlimited trips to the buffet. As drinks were also not included, it was a make-your-own-Pina-Colado type week. There was an on-site restaurant, The Mahi Mahi Grill, which had a good selection of good choices. I particularly liked the fish sandwich and pulpulpo salad (octopus), but the lobster is something to be skipped. $55 and overcooked. Everything else I had was be better.

Hyatt Hacienda del Mar

From out perch on the 7th floor we had an amazing view of the ocean. Every room faced the ocean, but higher was better.

Leaving the room through the front door (because leaving via the back door would lead to death), the view was spectacular as well, and being so high showed off the beautiful island interior.

The pool area was nice, if compact. Seats went quickly by the main pool and as we were rarely out of the room in time to snag them, the pool wasn’t an option. This didn’t make me sad. Most days we were at the beach because of views like this, a big improvement than Michigan in March:

A breakwater protected the bay, but fairly large waves would still roll in. A sparsely attended public beach was to the left of the resort, its low numbers of guest reflecting that there was no parking. To the right was empty beach ending in impassible rocks. The water was a little calmer in this area and the few snorkelers I saw were here. I hadn’t brought my gear. We did spot a few sea turtles as they raised their heads above the water. And there was the staircase to nowhere:

Next to the resort was a empty lot. What was probably a hotel is an rubble-strewn empty lot, damaged too severely to be repaired by Hurricane Maria in 2017. That storm killed almost 3,000 people on Puerto Rico and caused $91 billion in damage. The island still has not completely recovered. On runs through a nearby neighborhood, several homes were empty, damaged too greatly to be occupiable.

On our last night, we bought food from the Mahi Mahi Grill (the aforementioned terrible lobster) to enjoy sitting outside and eating one last time before returning to the usual cold and wet Michigan spring. As our trip had gone pretty smoothly, Puerto Rico gave us a small parting gift. While we packed our small suitcases, the power went out across the entire resort. Only for ten minutes, but I thought it was a nice Puerto Rico goodbye.

Driving in Puerto Rico

This is the first in a short series of posts about Puerto Rico. In fact, I’ve even made a header image for it:

Wow! How great is that? You know you’re in for something special when there is a separate image just for that series.

The family (all three of us) were in Puerto Rico last week for Spring Break, and almost-annual tradition that takes us someplace warm when Michigan is having one of its bad weather months. This was our first trip to Puerto Rico and it was an enjoyable time. I’ll expound on all kinds of things in the coming few posts, but I first wanted to talk about driving in Puerto Rico.

The bad news: There are lots of bad drivers in Puerto Rico, like there are everywhere.

Arriving in the San Juan airport (SJU), I was very happy to find that you can walk to the car rental companies – they’re just across the street from the arrivals area. That made my heart feel super happy. Wait, that was Ni Hao Kai Lan – I should be using Dora the Explorer quotes. I’ll see what I can do later.

I’m going to give it to you straight: San Juan is a terrible city to drive in. Of all the cities, international and on the continental United States, San Juan was the worst. Andrea the navigator did a great job of getting us to Walmart for some supplies and onto to Dorado where our hotel waited, but the streets are twisting and street names may or may not be the same as they are on Google. And, in my case, it was dark and rainy.

Roads conditions on Puerto Rico vary wildly. Most are OK to poor, a few are excellent (especially around Dorado which is filled with luxury condos and hotels). Potholes are frequent and can be suspension-damaging, so always be on the lookout. Flooding during heavy rains is common so be extra cautious if you have to drive in a downpour. If you have plans to explore and such a storm comes, my advice is to change your plans and stay close to your hotel.

The streets twist and turn in the smaller towns. On many roads, street lines are only shadows of their former selves or missing completely.

For the last part of this post, I will focus specifically on San Juan.

I had wanted to spend a few hours in Old San Juan, but had heard driving through those old streets was terrible. I didn’t drive through the old town, and I would suggest you not either. Park at one of the lots or ramps on the outskirts and walk the rest of the way. It’s quite compact and along many intersections, there are no stop signs. Don’t try it.

I had found a place called “La Puntilla Parking” just south of Old San Juan. This would have been a great spot to park if I had gotten there an hour before I did (11:00). If you or your family are not early risers and you have to arrive in the late morning, skip this lot. A line at least ten cars deep had formed to get into the lot as soon as a car left. And even though it appeared there were many open spaces in the lot, those are held by pass holders and you may not be able to park in the lot.

If you do choose to park there, the entrance is on Calle Arturo Schomburg. Good luck.

What worked for us was one of the parking ramps on Calle Recinto Sur. The star is the approximate location of the entrance. Again, if you are arriving late in the morning, you will probably be in a long line of cars and you will be going up up up to the top. Ass hats that take up multiple spots are common.

The best advice for driving around Puerto Rico is to be patient, have an excellent navigator helping you because driving and trying to find the right road or freeway exit is not easy, and be vigilant for the enormous potholes waiting to eat your car.

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